Little Bras D’or, Nova Scotia to Doyles, Newfoundland Labrador – 30 June 2023
We had booked a cabin on the Ferry to Newfoundland as it was an 8 hour ride across. This turned out to be a great idea as we each had our own bunk and there was even a TV in the room with several movies and TV shows to choose from. Jax was quite comfy on his bed with a bone to keep him occupied.
The ride was pretty smooth and from our window we could see nothing but ocean and mist all the way. We had brought plenty of snacks and things to keep ourselves occupied and we also ended up watching the old movie Jaws which was still scary. Later in the afternoon, Derek and Lucy went to the dining room for dinner and then brought back some food for me as well. Before we knew it, it was time to return to our vehicle in preparation to disembark.
As we drove into Newfoundland we were presented with these tall green mountains covered in mist. A taste of the beauty that was to come. We drove to our campsite Grand Codroy RV/Tent Camping Park and set up in a lovely big site with views of the river below.
Saturday it was Canada Day and we decided to go for a hike in the area. We chose the Starlight Trail as it was touted as moderate and was said to have sweeping views of the mountains and valley. The hike started off well but went into an immediate ascent. It was extremely rocky and in places very steep which had me crawling on hands and knees. About an hour in both Lucy and I were exhausted and decided to stop on the side of the mountain and rest. Derek continued with Jax and disappeared over the rise for about half an hour. By the time he got back we had got our breath back and we all started the descent down. Back at the car we were hot and bothered and decided to try and find a cappuccino in the area. Unfortunately, the shops were out but we were able to get another cold drink. Once home, we unpacked the car and put everything back in the RV. I had just offloaded a bunch of stuff inside and was returning to the car and I slipped down the RV stairs, falling in a heap on the side of my bum and my elbow. Ouch!!! Derek practically carried me inside and I was promptly put on the couch with water and ibuprofen to rest. Thank goodness I didnt land on my back or on the back of my head. An early night and the next day I was as good as new again even though I had a few new bruises to show.
Sunday we had a down day, each person doing our own thing. A little later in the afternoon we went in search of vegetables – found only one grocery type shop in the area – Gillis – and it had everything in it – from washing machines to food to alcohol and paint. We stocked up on what we could and went back home. Later we took Jax down to the river for a run and a swim and then settled down for a BBQ and a movie.
The following day we took drive out to the Cape Ray lighthouse and walked around the deserted grounds admiring the wild, rugged coastline and the smattering of buildings around the lighthouse. Built in 1897, the Cape Ray lighthouse is one of the oldest surviving lighthouses in Newfoundland. Over the years it has played a vital role in guiding ships through the treacherous waters of the Gulf of St Lawrence and the Cabot strait. Interestingly, during World War II, it served as a surveillance and defense station. Its strategic location made it an ideal spot for monitoring enemy activities in the area.
It had a reinforced concrete, tapered tower topped with an aluminum and glass lantern and stands at an impressive height of approx. 60 feet offering panoramic views of the surrounding area. Across from the lighthouse mounted on the ground was a foghorn with warning signs saying it could go off at any time without warning.
On the way back to the RV park, we stopped and took a walk in the Grand Codroy Provincial Park. It has a large, beautiful sandy beach with the Grand Codroy River on one side and the Atlantic Ocean on the other. The River is full of salmon and brook trout and of course very popular with Anglers – we did see someone fishing on the other side of the bridge when we arrived. The area was filled with a number of diverse landbirds, waterfowl, shorebirds and seabirds. Apparently, this beach is a nesting ground for the endangered Piping Plover. I only found that out after I had let Jax run wild on the beach. Thank goodness he didn’t harm anything.
That evening we Lucy and I popped into “craft store” at the campground office. It had a lovely collection of items including quite a few items of clothing. Both Lucy and I ended up buying a NL Christmas decoration souvenir and chatting with the owner’s son who had come over to help his parents for the summer. He was a retired Navy officer who used to be as he called it “the Weather man”. As we spoke we could hear laughter and music from the campsite’s music hall. There was a motorhome club who were staying at the campsite and they were having a “screech ceremony”. As we had never heard of screeching before, we were strongly encouraged to go and join in. We went back to the RV, had some supper and then all three of us headed to the music hall where the sounds had increased in intensity.
Screeching is a quirky Newfoundland (NL) tradition reserved for non-Newfoundlanders. It involves a little recital which we unfortunately missed, then there’s this codfish that everyone has to kiss, followed by shots of rum. The kissing a fish part, is apparently a symbol of saying goodbye to those brave souls sailing off to Jamaica and returning with precious rum.
The rum goes by the name “Screech,” and it’s strong enough to knock your socks off. Back in the day, when salt fish was shipped from NL to the West Indies, they would trade it for rum. But this particular rum didn’t have a name until a peculiar incident during WWII.
Legend has it that an American soldier, was overwhelmed by the potency of the rum, after chugging it down in one swift gulp. His anguished howls caught the attention of a curious onlooker who rushed to his aid, exclaiming, “What on earth was that unholy screech?” And a stoic Newf friend calmly replied, “Oh, that screech? That’s just the rum, my son.” As news of the incident spread, more soldiers dared to try this mysterious rum, and lo and behold, it became their favorite. And thus, a legend was born!
An important part of the Screech ceremony was the lively Irish music with Singers accompanied by a Guitar, Accordian and Ugly sticks! Hailing from Newfoundland, the ugly stick is crafted from recycled treasures like mops, brooms, and tin cans. With a mighty boot as its foundation and a head on top, it’s a symphony of striking the boot on the ground and unleashing rhythmic beats on the stick. Derek and I were each given a stick and we were wacking away at the back of the hall. Was such fun.
While driving around Doyles, we came across a large open gravel area with a sign saying “Wreckhouse” positioned at the southern end of the Long Range Mountains, near the western mouth of the Codroy Valley. I was intrigued and wanted to find out what was there. Turns out Wreckhouse, is renowned for its exceptionally strong winds and being the 2nd most windiest place on Earth.
It earned its name due to the powerful gusts that occasionally blew railway cars off the track during the operation of the Newfoundland Railway. Southeast winds, pushed by offshore storms, funnel through the mountains building up pressure as they are squeezed into narrow gulches in the rocks. Once released into the valley, the winds gain speed often exceeding cat 2 hurricane force and measuring over 200 km/h. The winds continue to pose a hazard to vehicles on Highway 1, occasionally causing transport trucks to veer off the road.
Today the Meteorological Service of Canada monitors wind conditions in that area and travellers are notified of any potential “Wreckhouse Winds” a term now commonly used. Wind conditions are usually worse during Winter and Spring and it was totally calm when we were there.
Our intro to Newfoundland had begun. We were baffled by their accents which half the time could not understand, enjoyed the wonderful, upbeat Irish music and fell in love with the most spectacular, rugged, beautiful scenery. We did struggle in the smaller towns with finding decent groceries and when we did find something, it was at an outrageous price. Also we couldn’t find any “dog friendly” restaurants and we were inundated with mosquitos and biting flies especially in the forests. I did love how the Newfies painted their houses and buildings in bright colours even their wooden trash bins.
