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Ottawa, Ontario to Rigaud, Quebec – 3 June 2023

Camping Choisy was the closest campground we could find near Montreal which was really the spot we wanted to visit.  As well, there were several dog wash machine prospects in Montreal that I wanted to chat with face to face. As Montreal was a two hour round trip from where we were, I booked an Airbnb for a couple of nights in downtown Montreal.

When we arrived at Camping Choisy we were immediately transported into another country. Not a word of English anywhere. We spent most of the time on Google Translate trying to figure things out.  The campground was well maintained but very busy with families as it was the weekend.

The following morning, we left fairly early as I had booked brunch with Elisabeth, who had worked for me for about a year helping to grow the dog wash market in Quebec. While Elisabeth and I had talked on the phone and zoom we had never met in person. We met at this wonderful brunch place in Old Montreal called Cartier.  I had an Egg Benedict with duck confit – a combination I hadn’t tried before and it was delicious. It was so great to finally meet her as we had always got on so well.

After breakfast, I met up with Derek and Jax and we wondered around Old Montreal taking in the beautiful architecture before returning back to the Airbnb. The apartment was on the 20th floor and surrounded by nightclubs and restaurants.  There were fantastic views from the living room and a small balcony which I could not even step onto without getting severe vertigo.  So Derek was sent out instead to take videos and photos for me. That night we dined at a lebanese/syrian restaurant just up the road from us. We shared a starter, a Moutabbal, which was like an eggplant hummus with tahini and pomegranate, followed by Shish Barak, meat dumplings in a yoghurt sauce, long grained rice with slivered almonds and Mansaf, lamb shanks in a fermented yoghurt sauce, all to the melodious sounds of the Bouzouki being played in the background. The Piece de Resistance was the Ice Cream Zulof. The vanilla ice cream was nested in strands of what tasted like candy floss sprinkled with cheese and capped with caramel sauce that the owner (and Chef) of the restaurant poured over my dessert for me. Beyond decadent!  We totally overindulged that night but it was worth it.

The next morning after brunch at one of the restaurants down the street, we drove to the Port of Montreal where we parked the car and continued our exploration of Montreal. After visiting the Notre Dame Cathedral in Ottawa, I didn’t think I could see a church more beautiful until we found the Notre Dame Basilica Cathedral in Montreal. Walking into the church just took my breath away. Facing the Place d’Armes square, the Cathedral is the first gothic style church in Canada. It was designed by New York Protestant architect, James O’Donnell (1774-1830). O’Donnell passed away in 1830 after converting to Catholicism. His crypt is under the Basilica. Since it’s beginning the church has gone through several building iterations. The Cathedral has been the site of many major religious and cultural events and several significant funerals over the years. Céline Dion and René Angélil got married here in 1994.

It is often frequented by music lovers who can listen to concerts, choirs and the famous Casavant organ, thanks to its impeccable acoustics. Luciano Pavarotti performed at the Basilica in 1978 to record a Christmas concert. The Montréal Symphony Orchestra also plays here regularly.. Today, the bells ring every hour from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., adding one ring every hour. The melody you hear is the same as the Westminster carillon that Big Ben plays in London.

Old Montreal just blew my mind with its charming Parisian flair. Founded by French settlers in 1642 as Fort Ville-Marie, Old Montreal is home to many structures dating back to the era of New France. Everywhere you look you are surrounded by beautiful architecture. This area spans several blocks near the Old Port, the waterfront of the Saint Lawrence river. The many churches are incredible with their tall spires and copper statues. There is also such an interesting contrast as you transition from older Montreal and see the old buildings reflected in the glassed new buildings of downtown. Montreal is filled with talented buskers, boutiques, museums and restaurants. People cycle and stroll along the cobblestones streets enjoying an enormous variety of delicious foods in outdoor patios and markets.

After a few hours of walking we returned to the car and drove to Mont Royal park.  When we parked the car in the lot we saw a few enormous Marmots – not at all afraid of people, just munching on leaves in one of the flowerbeds. Mont Royal is part of the Monteregian Hills situated between the Laurentians and the Appalachian Mountains just west of downtown Montreal. It is one of Montreal’s largest green spaces.  The mountain is the deep extension of a vastly eroded ancient volcanic complex, which was probably active about 125 million years ago. McGill university sits at the foot of Mount Royal. In 1914–1918, the Mount Royal Tunnel was dug under the mountain by the Canadian Northern Railway, and is currently used by the AMT’s Deux-Montagnes commuter rail line.  

There are several trails in the park. We walked the trail to the Mont Royal Chalet and saw incredible views of Montreal’s skyline from the bricked courtyard. The chalet was constructed in 1932 as a make-work project during the Great Depression. Today it hosts various events with room for 300 to 700 people.  From there we continued on the trail to the 103 ft illuminated cross. This cross was installed in 1924 and commemorates January 6, 1643, when Maisonneuve, Montréal’s founder, kept his promise to carry a wooden cross to the summit of Mount Royal if the young colony survived flooding.

There were several statues in the park. One impressive statue was honouring Sir George-Étienne Cartier, Liberal reformer to the Canadian legislature in 1848. He was appointed provincial secretary for Canada East in 1855 and later attorney general. Cartier was considered the Father of Confederation and became Co Premier with John Macdonald.
Back at the apartment I left to have coffee with the prospects while Derek looked after Jax. When I got back Derek was feeling quite under the weather – perhaps all the over indulging. So I just picked up a salad for myself and we settled in for the evening.

The next morning I got up early and went to the Museum of Fine Arts which happened to be a couple of blocks away from our airbnb. It is huge, consisting of 3 separate buildings covering 571,510 sq ft. Unfortunately we had only an hour and a half before we needed to check our of our accommodation, so I didn’t manage to see all sections. They have International, Canadian, Early to Modern, Contemporary, Decorative art, Arts of one world, Graphic arts and Sculptures. I was very excited to find “The Thinker” by Rodin and several paintings from other Masters.

I’m not usually a big fan of indigenous masks, but couldn’t help admiring the exquisite craftsmanship of Dempsey Bob. The Tahltan-Tlingit artist, now 75, is one of the most well known artists from British Columbia. He is a member of the wolf clan – imagery which features prominently in his exhibition at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts. Bob won the Governor General’s Award in visual and media arts in 2021. Besides masks, his intricate work also includes totem poles and sculptures. The exhibition included 60 of his pieces. Each mask had a different theme – frogs, wolves, ravens, bears etc. His work underlies a perspective on the world that sees animals and humans as interchangeable and of equal value. The museum showcased over 45,000 pieces of art. It was absolutely incredible. You could easily spend the whole day here.
it was time to return to Camping Choisy get ready for the next move and say goodbye to beautiful Montreal.

 

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