Toronto to Tobermory, Ontario – 10 May 2023
We were excited to visit Tobermory as we had heard it was a pretty neat spot. Tobermory is on the northern most tip of the Bruce Peninsula. A small tourist town with a lovely harbour on Lake Huron. The summer busy season had not started yet so we were lucky to avoid the crowds. The staff at the park we had booked – Happy Hearts, were really nice. They were running around the RV as we were trying to back in, cutting branches off the trees to make it easier for us to get into the site. The owner came over and chatted and was very accommodating. Such a difference from the last RV campground we parked in.
Day 2 we got a visit from Simon Lanoix, who worked with me at my previous job. He drove all the way from Ottawa on his motorbike. Him and his wife Julie are very experienced long distance walkers and always interested in new places to explore, so he was quite interested in the Bruce Trail and what it had to offer. The Bruce Trail is the longest and oldest trail in Canada, stretching over 890 km in length and runs through the Bruce National Park in Tobermory. It was so great to see him again after so long and to catch up on each other’s adventures. As he was only in town for a few hours we made the most of it by stopping off at the Observation tower in the Bruce National Park to get a glimpse of the park and lake from the top and then going for a bite to eat in town at one of the breweries.
The following day we went to the Bruce Peninsula National Park to hike to the Grotto and Indian Head. Our forest walk led to the magnificent, towering dolomite cliffs of the Niagara Escarpment overlooking gorgeous crystal clear blue waters of the Georgian Bay. It was a bit of a climb to get there but well worth it. Quite a few other people also hiking so we took a different path back along the coast, following a loop back past Marr lake and Cyprus lake.
Sunday was Mother’s day so Derek obliged me by taking the Chi-Cheemaun ferry to Manitoulin Island. I loved how the ferry was painted with Indigenous art. The ferry was a 2 hour ride each way. Manitoulin Island is on Lake Huron and is the largest lake island in the world. It has over 100 lakes itself with each having their own islands. It is home to six Anishinaabe First Nations communities and has a rich indigenous culture.
After a bite to eat at one of the local restaurants we drove about 40 minutes to get to the start of the Cup and Saucer trail. When we arrived a dog charged towards us and I expected the worst. However, Jax was the one that was more aggressive as he was surprised by the dog, who was as friendly as hell. In fact he was so friendly we couldn’t get rid of him and he remained with us for the duration of the hike. He would run off ahead, sniff in the bushes on the side, and then run back to be us again. According to the tag on his collar he was Bruno and lived across the road from the trail. The trail was through the forest and across a dolomite escarpment to a lookout point which provided fantastic views across the island. When we got back to the car, I leashed up Bruno and took him back home across the busy road, all the while he was playing tug of war with me and the leash. There owner was not concerned at all and said he always disappears to the trail. Well no wonder if they have no fence, I would be very concerned that he would get knocked over on that busy road.
After the hike we drove back to the ferry to get into the line up and had just about enough time to get something to drink before boarding. It was weird exiting out of the ferry at Tobermory, it was almost like I expected to see Victoria after the many times we have got off the ferry from Vancouver.
The next day we left early in the morning to catch a glass bottomed boat ride to Flowerpot island. Flowerpot island is in the Georgian bay and part of the Fathom Five National Marine Park. The name of the island comes from two very large rock pillars on its eastern shore which look like flower pots. On the way to the island we floated across two shipwrecks which could be clearly seen below the boat. One of the wrecks – the Sweepstakes had sank in 1885. Very eerie. There are 22 shipwrecks in this area, most at the point where Lake Huron meets the Georgian Bay.
Flowerpot island was beautiful and so well maintained. There were very well marked trails around the entire island which several lookout points and camping platforms providing views of the crystal clear, turquoise water. We could have been in the Bahamas has the water not been so frigid.
The Flowerpots were very impressive. They are a type of sea stack formed by erosion from the wind, rain, water and ice. According to an old legend of the Ottawa and Chippewa people, these are the petrified bodies of two lovers who were frozen in time by the Islands little spirit. We also saw a historic lighthouse
We met a lovely girl on the cruise who was in Tobermory for a few days and had taken the cruise to celebrate her birthday. Her name was Fanny and she was from France. She had been staying and working in Montreal and Kitchener on a visa but as her visa was due to expire she had decided to do a little bit of travelling before returning home. Jax took a real liking to her.
